Day 70 SUPER SEWARD ON THE KENAI PENNINSULA

LOCAL NEWS
Reading today's Anchorage news...'Chronic inebriates' could be cut off. Fairbanks: Liquor stores wouldn't be able to sell to them. Yep the City Council will consider a ban on the sale of alcohol to 'chronic inebriates.' Trying to address the alcohol problem in Fairbanks. Do we tread lightly to address this HORRIFIC problem in Alaska (yes of course we have it in the lower 48)? Is it the cold? Is it the long dark months? Is it the cowboy mentality you find up here? What is the criterion to make the list of not being able to sell to? How will this be monitored? Never mind that.....my friends, sounds like this a problem statewide.... And your thoughts are?

KENAI NATIONAL PARK

WELCOME TO THE LAND CARVED BY GLACIERS AND POLISHED BY THE SEA.

Anyway back to a little fun in Seward. The gateway to the Kenai Fjords National Park. Established in 1980 on 607,000 acres. The smallest National Park in Alaska. The Harding icefield is the park's "crown jewel" the real mother load of the hood. There are 3 dozen glaciers flowing out of these mountains. Buba and I took a little stroll up the mountain. he pointed out all the Moose "nuggets" along the way...then mentioned, well, hey they could be bear nuggets. Lovely. Of course he reminded me the Canadian Border Boys took his Buba knife away so he might have some difficulty protecting me from some of those pesky bears.... Ya gotta know there is a Knife store on every corner and of course they sell guns at the Wal Mart (no kidding). Unlimited Amo. Buba is in heaven. Formal dress is a t-shirt with a collar. And the mantra of "ain't none of your business" rings like music to his ears. Speaking of music...of course they love Country and Western.

So we stomped around "Exit Glacier" and Hardin Icefield. Tomorrow we hit the water via tour boat....as the Oh Ranger Boy said "you can expect calving"....huh? Buba, I didn't know they had cows out here? Bochahontas must have missed geography at the Univ of Texas. Hook'em!

Just a reminder....Did You Know?

With 570,374 square miles, Alaska is twice the size of Texas and 1/5 the size of the rest of the United States. It stretches 2,400 miles east-to-west and 1,420 miles north-to-south. Its 6,640-mile coastline is 50 percent longer than the combined east and west coasts of the United States. The picture says it all. Alaska imposed over the lower 48 - all to scale.

Day 69 Monday SO LONG TYONEK FRIENDS: IT TAKES A VILLAGE

Good bye new friends. Our Athabaskan Family gave us a sweet send off...hugs and tears (yeah that would be me Old Waterworks). They brought us various types of Salmon to take home to our families. Pleep took one more ride around the hood on his favorite 4 wheeler. The 30 second trip to the landing strip (you could see it right out our window) was great in that we did not have to go through all the security stuff. I hope in some small way we brought love, joy, God and some muscle to the Village. The Team wants to do some follow up...what will that look like? I am particularly grateful for the opportunity and privilege to have been a guest of the village for the last couple of weeks. The Tyonek's are very private so the invitation was very much appreciated. Our new friends also spoke of the future and visits.

I look to their future as well. I pray they have learned many lessons due to bad luck and less than stellar decision making of the past (i.e. the windfall of $12 million from oil lease revs in 1963). Will the Corporate Model be the future? Will the resource allocation of money for the village be transparent for all to see? Will resource allocation be based on the Village's needs rather than individual? Will unemployment decrease? Will the alcoholism decrease? Will drug usage cease and desist? Will the Church be resurrected as a focal point in the community as it once was? Will the drop out rate from school decrease? Will the nuclear family make a come back? Will the cemetery be a visual place of honor? Will the Boys and Girls club reopen? Will the elders teach the young ones drumming and other traditional cultural lessons and things? What will the future hold for my new friends?

I pray that each and every PROUD TUBUGNHA NATIVE rises to the occasion. I know they can and we all know life is all about choices.


Thank you Tyonek for a deep and meaningful experience.

With love and profound respect to each and everyone,
Bocahontas AKA Pamela Collins
XXXOOOXXXX

Day 68 TYONEK: FOR WHOM THE BELL TOLLS

TAR BABY AND QUITTIN TIME

Tar Baby (that's Robs new name) has taken to taring that roof. Andrew assists and John holds the ladders. Blake measures and nails. Keith cuts, hands up supplies to the roofers and burns the debris in his big fire pit. Also up on the roof are our village friends Issac, Chad and Leonard and a few others that have pitched in throughout the project. Even Pinky got up there with the boys-God Bless! Blakealso designed a new ground bell "tower"...until the future bell tower gets rebuilt. Pleep drove us nuts ringing those bells.

In hindsight I think our Team bit off a little too much of a "missions project"-remember we were to come to help repair the tower (as in replace some wood, caulk etc.) not tear down most of a 3 story structure and rebuild a new roof! The boys worked their fannies off...yep 14 hour days. Thank you sunshine in Alaska till 11 pm in the summer. As I mentioned, my job was boots on the ground PRAYING THAT NOBODY WOULD FALL OFF THE ROOF OR MAIM THEMSELVES! Good job Bocahantas. You have no idea how many candles were lit and Jesus prayers were said and promises made to accomplish this. Amen. I just couldn't see me driving that truck home while Keith snoozed in the passenger seat with some lame injury. Rob and Andrew had a clothes burning ceremony Sunday night as there was nothing else to do with those tarred up jeans and shirts. Not Buba. He use hand sanitizer trying to remove his tar. Only making it worse of course. "The Traveling Pants" are now stinking up the car. Will he wear them proudly in Boca? Now it may take a few weeks for the tar to wear off the skin boys.... They did not shingle or paint so WE ARE WISHING, HOPING AND PRAYING (you know I love Dusty Springfield) that our hosts will finish it off. Hello Ty friends, you know I'll be checking up on you.

SENATE PROBES NATIVE CORPS

This was a headline on the front page of the Anchorage Daily News. "An investigation into how Alaska Native Corporations are landing billions in federal contracts found the companies have seen dramatic growth over the past eight years and said the contracting has totaled nearly $24 billion during that period". The total amount of Alaska Native contracting has grown from $508 million in 2000 to $5.2 billion last year. The Native corporations received 19 percent of all Federal contracts awarded to small business while only 1/5th of the work was performed in Alaska. 70% of those contracts were awarded through the Department of Defense through mainly no bid set asides.....hey how much are those execs paid? how many employees are Native? No bid federal contracts meaning no competition? Yikes. Collectively the ANC (Alaska Native Corporations) serve 130,000 disadvantaged individuals and are responsible for providing economic, social and culture benefits in perpetuity. How much of the revenue actually reaches Natives as shareholder dividends? Is this a scam as big biz (big defense contractors partnering with my Natives) reaps most of the benefit....COME ON MY BROTHERS AND SISTERS lets stand up and not stand under those big honking companies...let's do it on our own. Then no beholding to the man, so to speak. I know you're thinking...huh? that right wing republican babe is talking some kinda 60's. You bet. Stand up. Through education, hard work and integrity. Please forgive me if I am coming across too preachy....I love my new friends from the Village. I want the best for you. Stand up and many will stand beside you.

BACK AT THE RANCH

My friends made a great BBQ feast for us on our last day-Sunday. MMMMMMMMMMM. And as Betty would say "YUM!" Several brought us salmon in a variety of ways....I tried to hide much of it as I did not want to share...but I was caught and no I won't torture you and say "red handed". Pleep also loved the salmon and od'd on the green apples. That darn monkey ate so many that we had to send him to the Clinic...diagnosed with Greenappleitis. Buba had to feed him Malox and Tums for 2 days. My favorite gift was from Chad- one of his personal hats that says NATIVE PRIDE. So that makes Chad my brother from another Mother! I wore it proudly. My bro then played the Drum and sang for us. He had some crazy idea that I was crying about his song and sad to be leaving- oh no I said, " I was crying that you needed voice lessons and I would probably have to pay for them!" Right. Chad was everybody's favorite Indian version of Seinfield. He had us in stitches much of the time. His sister Katherine and Norma opened their hearts to us too- make no mistake this is a very closed "community" and it took some work to get to that relating stuff. We loved our nurse Crystal and the Crystalettes (her big brood)-honey she has a time out (Indian boy facing the wall) that works....never mind she leaves them there a day and 1/2 (just kidding of course). Lindsey our Post Mistress Mama and her 2 precious girls...Keith tried every way to figure out how he could fit them in his suitcase. Issac, who lives in Anchorage, but loves HIS village and worked ceaselessly with the team on that bell tower. And the big kahuna for us was Gwen. We are talking NATIVE PRIDE BABE! Along with her man Leonard and their 2 beautiful Athabaskan Boys (AJ and Tom Tom-toughest feet in the state). Gwen went above and beyond the call of "duty" as President of the Sisterhood. When you first meet her, she pretty much stared right through me...oy did someone tell her about Bocahantas and my bad ways? Gwen has worked her finger to the bone for many months preparing for the our visit. Slowly, slowly, step by step, inch by inch, in this case millimeter by millimeter I did my best to get next to her. It was a tough sell and I found that GWEN HAS A HUGE HEART OF GOLD. I am honored to say she is my friend. May the good Lord continue to bless her and all of her efforts on behalf of the Church and Village-she has a big job in front of her....LEAD THE WAY GWEN. Many are praying for you!

Day 67 TYONEK: THE EAGLE HAS LANDED

A bald eagle landed on the middle cross on the center of the church roof. He just perched on the cross and watched the TEAM work. It was truly majestic-such a beautiful bird. We see many of them daily and the village people are still in awe of them too. They say the view from the roof (the Church was built on the highest point in the village) is spectacular. It over looks the unique, solemn and sacred cemetery.

I took a little tour over to the cemetery (thank you Betty my tour guide). There were many powder blue Orthodox Crosses set on the east side of the grave. The bodies are buried with the head facing the cross...not like what we do in the lower 48-head closed to the tombstone/headstone with graves willy nilly (east, west, north south) around the cemetery. At Tyonek the crosses and coffins are all laid out in the same direction-heads looking east.

After the mosquito's munched on Pinky Lee and me due to a) being in Alaska and b) tall weeds and pretty much an unkempt cemetery, I asked Betty and others about the beautiful cemetery on the hill-doesn't anyone ever mow or weed? "We leave it up to the individual families to take care of their departed loved ones". Huh? Well I said, it doesn't look like that's working. Ok so here starts the probing Bocahontas....why not get the young people to maintain the cemetery? why not all pitch in and pay someone to take care of it? I know the Athabaskan Orthodox people have a long and rich tradition of honoring the dead so I didn't get the unkempt cemetery. The answers to my questions were explanations, yeah I get that, and?????

BIBLICAL SCAVENGER HUNT

Pinky Lee and I thought up a Bible Scavenger game....it sounded easy and simple at the time. In fact it took a good bit of time to draft this game up. I told Pinky, hey if this is a success then maybe we should patent it. Pinky said something like "wouldn't it be the "Way" to just share it on the Internet Pam". Good point Pinky!

We had 2 teams, St. Herman's Posse and St. Nicholas Posse (the name of their soon to be botoxed church). And who's bright idea was it to put one clue over at the Mosquito Festival..oops, I mean the cemetery. At each clue stop we had a little bit of Orthodox Sunday School. Actually, I think in spite of those "killer" mosquito's they liked the cemetery. Very few had been to a funeral or burial. What is the appropriate age to take a child to a "wake"? a funeral? a burial? how much do you explain to a child about death? Anyway, we had fun running all over the hood and of course treats at the end of the game are always welcome. SUGAR UP MY LITTLE TYONEK BABES!

Day 66 Friday SCHOOLS OOOOOOOOOOOOUT FOR SUMMER!

Keith takes a break from roof duty and has a little chat with his girlfriends. The girls are beyond adorable. So full of curiosity and hugs. However when teen years show up issues surface with school. Some go to boarding schools around the state. They can choose to do this (the state pays for the schooling as part of the Alaska Native Claims Settlement) or they can stay home in the village for school. Many drop out before finishing high school...I have heard various drop out rates-from 70-85%. This is beyond a travesty not only for the child but for the Tribe and Community and the State as well.

Back in the 40's, 50's and 60's (until Molly Hootch Case) young natives were required to attend Boarding schools with the idea to assimilate into the general population and get the education that the villages didn't have the resources to provide. The Molly Hootch decision required the State to provide education in the respective villages (if there were at least 25 kids/students in the village). The folks of Tyonek were not very enthusiastic about their local school. Tebughna school is K-12 with 46 or so students with a student to teacher ratio of 10:1. The teachers are provided housing across the street from the school and I can only imagine what this might be like for a young person living in this fairly isolated situation (no Macy's, no Starbucks, no Movie Theater, no professional sporting events, dating let alone weather conditions etc). I asked if any of the teachers were Native? Nope. Who would take on this type of a job? Why? How long do they stay? What are the results they are achieving? How involved are the parents? The tribe as a whole? What is the advantage of going to school in the village or going to the boarding school? I heard mixed opinions of the boarding schools (depending upon the particular boarding school). Is not going to boarding school a backlash to the old days of being made to go to boarding school? We have learned with other minority groups (actually just people in general) that education is a ticket to moving on up and being a productive member of society. What is the commitment of my friends the Tyoneks with regard to education for their children? All of this quitting school and dropping out surely doesn't serve the child or the Tribe.....Tyonek Parents "wazzup?"

Day 65 Tyonek: 3 SHEETS MISSION NEWS

Bell Tower Update

Still pounding nails. Bringing new meaning to "3 Sheets in The Wind"-the ice and water barrier sheet, the felt sheet, the black roll of scratchy stuff sheet (looks like what the lady who does my pedicure uses, I'll have to let her know she can get it in big sheets). We don't need no stinking scaffolding. We use rope tied to a truck as our OSHA obedience. My job? Praying like heck that none of the guys would fall off, cut their hand, put a nail through some body part, splinter, twist their back or just a plain old concussion. Hey guys, from down here it doesn't look that high? I had to run for the hills with that remark.

Team Dynamics

Still chugging along. It's interesting to get a group who don't know each other together in a day or two to "getter done". And there's always one who can be a Prickly Pete. There must be a Biblical reason for that. :)

NEW BEST FRIENDS FOR PLEEP!

He is making many new friends. Maggie the Moose (Pleep's new sibling) is not so sure. She's heard about the Moose Stew. Pleep loves making Icons and playing on the beach. He is teaching the children how to cross themselves Orthodox style....one of my dear friends Chad shared a story about a Catholic Priest blessing the crowd with a Catholic Hand Cross Blessing...trouble was it translated to "take your tepee and go home". Now I understand how all this Orthodoxy got going in the hood. :)

WE STUDIED THE ALASKAN SAINTS
Hello Florida any Saintly folks down your way??? 3 of my favorite......

St. Herman: St. Herman of Alaska, wonderworker of all America. Born: around 1756-1760 (Serpukhov, Moscow Diocese, Russia) Died: December 13/25, 1837 (Spruce Island, Alaska) Glorification Date: August 9, 1970 Commemoration Dates: August 9 (glorification) December 13 (repose)

As a young monk at the Trinity-St. Sergius Monastery near St. Petersburg, Russia, a large abscess appeared on his neck. He prayed before an icon of the Mother of God and went to sleep. In his dream, the Mother of God appeared to him and healed him. When he awoke, the abscess had miraculously disappeared. After five or six years, St. Herman moved to the Valaam Monastery. He was one of the monks selected by the pious abbot Nazarius in 1794 to go to America for missionary work. Abbot Nazarius blesses Monk Herman for the journey and evangelical mission. Here is the icon of the arrival of Russian missionaries (Archimandrite Joasaph, hieromonk Macarius, Hieromonk Juvenal, Hieromonk Athanasius, Hierodeacon Nectarius, Hierodeacon Stephen, monk Herman, monk Joasaph) on Kodiak Island September 24, 1794 after a journey of 7,327 miles lasting 293 days. It was the longest missionary journey in Orthodox Church history. St. Herman gives thanks for their safe arrival. On a night in winter, St. Herman walks barefoot and carries a very heavy log as his disciple Nazarius looks on astonished, for it was hardly possible for four men to carry it.

St. Herman cares for the natives stricken by a terrible smallpox epidemic which swept the area. For a whole month he visited the sick, prayed with them, urged them to repentance, or prepared them for death. He did not spare himself until the epidemic died out. Father Herman deeply loved the natives, especially children, as he preached to them and cared for their material needs. The children, especially, were attracted by his gentleness.

During a forest fire on Spruce Island, St. Herman digs a ditch to protect his hermitage, predicting that the fire would not go beyond it. The fire extinguished itself as it approached the ditch. St. Herman's death on December 13/25, 1837. His body remained in the warm home of his disciples for a whole month with no sign of decomposition. He was buried by the natives on Spruce Island.

In 1842, St. Innocent's ship was in extreme danger in the waters off Kodiak. After he prayed to St. Herman for help, the wind became favorable and the waters miraculously became calm, allowing the ship to reach port in safety. St. Innocent served a panikhida for St. Herman at his grave, thanking him for his deliverance. On August 9, 1970, St. Herman was glorified as the first American saint. Metropolitan Ireney of New York, Archbishop Paul of Finland,and Bishop Theodosius of Alaska presided at the canonization service.

Because of the holiness of his life, St. Herman was able to converse with angels and live in harmony with the wild animals. When someone asked him how he could live alone in the forest, St. Herman replied, "I am not alone there. God is there, as God is everywhere. Holy angels are there. With whom is it more pleasant to converse, with men or with angels? With angels, of course!"

St. Innocent: Born: August 26, 1797 (Anginskoye, Irkuts); Died: March 31, 1879 (Moscow, Russia); Glorification Date: October 6, 1977; Commemoration Dates: October 6 (glorification) & March 31 (repose). As a young priest at the Annunciation Church in Irkutsk (1821-23), Fr. John Veniaminov also taught children their faith in school. When all other clergy refused to go, Fr. John accepted assignment to Unalaska. His journey there from Irkutsk with his family took 14 months. He traveled tirelessly throughout Alaska as a missionary. Preaching to natives in Alaska as a priest.

St. Innocent translated the Scriptures and other spiritual works into native languages. Building Holy Ascension Church in Unalaska with the assistance of natives whom he had taught construction techniques (1825-26). On Dec 15, 1840, following the death of his wife and monastic tonsure with the name Innocent, he is consecrated Bishop of Kamchatka, the Kutile and Aleutian Islands at Kazan Cathedral in St. Petersburg, Russia.

In 1842, Bishop Innocent was in a boat in very stormy seas off Kodiak. He turned towards Spruce Island and prayed to St. Herman for help. Within minutes the waters turned calm. As Bishop, he consecrated his diocesan Cathedral - St. Michael's in New Archangel (Sitka) on November 20, 1848, which he had previously built. In 1868, St. Innocent is elected Metropolitan of Moscow and Kolomna. The Dormition Cathedral in the Kremlin is in the background. Following his death on March 31, he is buried in the Church of the Holy Spirit at the Holy Trinity - St Sergius Lavra in Sergiev Posad on April 5, 1879. Following his canonization in 1977, the Church of Russia (personified here by the late Patriarch Pimen) and the Church of America (personified by Metropolitan Theodosius) pray to St. Innocent, whose image is borne by angels in heaven, at the Church of the Holy Spirit.

Peter the Aleut, Commemorated on September 24; Saint Peter the Aleut is mentioned in the Life of St Herman of Alaska (December 13). Simeon Yanovsky (who ended his life as the schemamonk Sergius in the St Tikhon of Kaluga Monastery), has left the following account: "On another occasion I was relating to him how the Spanish in California had imprisoned fourteen Aleuts, and how the Jesuits (actually Franciscans) were forcing all of them to accept the Catholic Faith. But the Aleuts would not agree under any circumstances, saying, 'We are Christians.' The Jesuits argued, 'That's not true, you are heretics and schismatics. If you do not agree to accept our faith then we will torture all of you to death.' Then the Aleuts were placed in prisons two to a cell. That evening, the Jesuits came to the prison with lanterns and lighted candles. Again they tried to persuade two Aleuts in the cell to accept the Catholic Faith. 'We are Christians,' the Aleuts replied, 'and we will not change our Faith.' Then the Jesuits began to torture them, at first the one while his companion was a witness. They cut off one of the joints of his feet, and then the other joint. Then they cut the first joint on the fingers of his hands, and then the other joint. Then they cut off his feet, and his hands. The blood flowed, but the martyr endured all and firmly repeated one thing: "I am a Christian.' He died in such suffering, due to a loss of blood. The Jesuit also promised to torture his comrade to death the next day.

But that night an order was received from Monterrey stating that the imprisoned Aleuts were to be released immediately, and sent there under escort. Therefore, in the morning all were sent to Monterrey with the exception of the dead Aleut. This was related to me by a witness, the same Aleut who had escaped torture, and who was the friend of the martyred Aleut. I reported this incident to the authorities in St Petersburg. When I finished my story, Father Herman asked, 'What was the name of the martyred Aleut?' I answered, 'Peter. I do not remember his family name.' The Elder stood reverently before an icon, made the Sign of the Cross and said, "Holy New Martyr Peter, pray to God for us!"

We know very little about St Peter, except that he was from Kodiak, and was arrested and put to death by the Spaniards in California because he refused to convert to Catholicism. The circumstances of his martyrdom recall the torture of St James the Persian (November 27).

Both in his sufferings and in his steadfast confession of the Faith, St Peter is the equal of the martyrs of old, and also of the New Martyrs who have shone forth in more recent times. Now he rejoices with them in the heavenly Kingdom, glorifying God, the Father, the Son, and the Holy Spirit, throughout all ages.

OK ENOUGH OF THAT. TIME FOR TREATS!!!

P.S. NEXT WEEK KEITH AND I WILL SPEND THE WEEK AT ST. HERMAN'S SEMINARY ON KODIAK ISLAND. I know you are wondering "What is she thinking? As if sleeping there will help make her more saintly?" Yep, pretty much that's what I'm thinking!

DAY 64 June 24 TYONEK: SOMETHING'S HAPPENING HERE. WHAT IT IS AIN'T EXACTLY CLEAR

BELLTOWER UPDATE

The guys are making great progress. They have figured out how to throw the debris down from the roof without bonking each other on the head....the guy on the ground yells "clear" not the guy above. The guy above yells "headache". Duh. Maybe when this is all said and done they will be able to get a 2nd career going as a roofer. I keep seeing more official documents around the village with a picture of the Church on the cover. While they obviously hold the Church close in some ways (historical?) most of the village do not attend services. How did they loose their faith? But they asked us to have the Church "fixed"? They are happy we are here. Why? Is it a symbol of their past that they want to hold on to in some way?

TRIBAL CENTER -my hang out! The "Chief" has loaned me HER office and computer wire. Yeah. Most of the Tribes have switched to the "corporate model" of tribe management and they have corporate titles...so she is now called President. Angela (el Presidente) has been down at her fish camp so I am keeping her seat warm. And what a hot seat it can be...you can only imagine being a part of the "new experiment of 20 years" (when they set up all these tribal corps etc), honoring the old ways, dealing with the current life situation and looking to the future....let alone most of the village is related in one shape or form. Oy. Chief has no phone on her desk. "They'll find me if they need me". The front page of the Anchorage news this week noted the Federal Probes of the billions of dollars given to Native Tribes. What did the required audits show year after year? Where did the money go? Where are the success stories of the Native people (doctors, lawyers, entrepreneurs, business people)? Do they give back to their tribes (communities?) Is there enough of a critical mass to do this...as found in the African-American, Hispanic and other ethnic communities? I am overwhelmed with where to start or what to do that will make a difference. While what we are doing is "good" believe me it is a drop of water in the ocean compared to the "need". Obviously, the Feds throwing all the money we have at the situation has not worked. Where does personal responsibility fit in the equation? Accountability? Yeah, somethings happening here.....

Tyonek Children

These are Keith's girlfriends Serenity and Kristiana..sisters. They are adorable and "help" their Mom who runs the post office. Last night we took a "nature walk" and played a game of clean up. Who is throwing cans and garbage on the "road"? The kids were enthusiastic to clean up when given direction. We had arts and crafts last night and made foil ICONS. Big hit. Of course cake and Kool Aid add to the fun. We even celebrated a birthday....a Mom in Anchorage sent over an ice cream cake on the plane. So here's how the shopping goes...you either order by phone or fly over ($150 round trip) to Anchorage to shop yourself. Then you schlep it all to the air port...put in refrigerators and freezer there until you are ready to go. The flight over is 1/2 hour or so...then race it home to freeze and put away. No forgetting anything as no Publix to run to. Itching for a cold can of Diet Coke- nothing fizzy to drink here. I met Art who is the person responsible for Child Welfare. You can only imagine what he is up against. Many Mothers are unmarried bringing up the kids solo. Many live with their boyfriends bringing up their kids and many live with their boyfriends bringing up kids from another man/father. What are the moral standards? Spiritual standards? So many unplanned pregnancies. Who is taking responsibility for these kids? What is the moral fabric here-what happened to the old religious ways that were challenged? Everything is OK? Where are the parents? Alcohol or drug/mood altering behavior? Bingo...the hope of winning the big one?

Day 63 June 23 TYONEK MISSION OR UP ON THE ROOF

UP ON THE ROOF

Tearing down and keeping a bonfire of the old roof....how much more fun can a guy have? The guys are up and out early, back to the house for "Moose Soup" then back to the roof....with only 2 hours of darkness you can work late. Yesterday the plumbing went kaput....but they had some of it back up last night. We are all sharing the same shower. You can only imagine the pure fun that is for me. I know we are on the same team but 5 guys and 2 ladies using one shower ewwwwwww...I am a big believer in Clorox and Comet (leave it in there with me just in case I see something creepy I can spray it), put a towel on the floor of the shower then wear Buba's flip flops in there (shhhhh, don't tell him about those flops). Never mind get the water warm...more of the scalding or ice cold. Washing your hair is an invigorating experience these days. Oh and without the plumbing working properly we now have to feed the toilet tank. As in we use a pan to get the water to put in the tank so we can flush. How's that for earthy Bocahontas?

MAKING NEW FRIENDS

Catherine from the Village took Pinky and I around today to meet some of the elders. For the most part people keep to themselves in spite of living in a very close proximity to each other in the Village. One of my new friends, Elder William, shared that a lot of the young people are without GOD in their life resulting in a life a drift. He also explained about "hooch". No doubt alcoholism is a prevalent problem in this Village as it is in many Indian Villages. I asked William how? Why? He said the white man showed them many new "tricks"...this being one of them. I said "well just because a person drinks wine it doesn't make them a wino". Is it the DNA? Is it the lifestyle? This disease pervasive and prevalent and affects the whole family and community. It is heartbreaking. Is there no way out? Surely this problem has been studied and studied with money thrown at the problem. One of my new friends, Art, said 80% of our village adults have this problem. Does anyone know of any success with alcoholism programs in the Indian Communities??? How can I help them? Art tried to hold AA meetings but nobody attended. What can I do?

I wish I could stay all summer. There is so much to do and in spite of me not being the "craftiest" lady. Even my half baked efforts with the arts and crafts are appreciated by the kids. What do they do all summer? There really aren't any organized programs. They watch TV and hang out. Can't ride a bike (roads are all stones), no Scouts, no Vacation Bible School, no Park Programs, no summer camp...nothing but "fish camp" at the beach for the adults. Several kids come from Anchorage to visit their grandparents and relatives during the summer. The kids are quite polite and yearn for activity. I also noticed how they love the hugs and attention we give. How is the village preparing these kids for the future? Where do they get their personal vision and ambition and the strength to fulfill them? How do they get a personal vision of faith in themselves? How are they taught to be a productive and industrious members of their community? Where does education fit in here? The Tyonek Feasibility Report has a picture of THE church (yes St. Nicholas Orthodox Church) on the cover of the report? Why?

I also met the Doyan Rent A Ranger. The Tyonek Corp contracts with them to patrol for trespassers on their land. They look for people hunting and fishing on their lands without a Tyonek permit. They are here June and July. I asked "who would come way over here and bother this village and how would they get here by "accident?" " They fly in and some think it is their right to fish and hunt here. Some guides fly in the bear hunters and "accidentally" cross over to Tyonek property. What is tribal justice? The Tyoneks own a Hunting Lodge- their guest have shot 35 bears out of there this season. Other than the Rent A Rangers we are the only white people here.

Learn more about Tyonek, their long range plans, and the Tyonek Corporation at their website: http://www.tyonek.com/

HOW ABOUT THIS FOR A LITTLE GEOGRAPHIC MARVEL?

Alaska is 2 1/2 times the size of Texas

3,000,000 lakes over 20 acres in size (compared to Minnesota's 10,000 Lakes)

6,640 miles of coastline (longer than all of the U.S. states combined)

An estimated 10,000 glaciers (covering nearly 5% of the state)

80% of the volcanoes in the U.S.

39 mountain ranges containing 17 of the 20 highest peaks in the U.S.

Day 62 June 22 TNT AND EARTHQUAKE ROCK AND ROLL

FOR WHOM THE BELL TOLLS

The rain added to the slip slidy up on the roof demolition of the bell tower. What "boy" doesn't like tearing things apart? I reminded Buba, between his titanium knees and arthritis to take it easy up on that 3rd story bell tower...sure yeah. Then the fun started-an earthquake hit while he was up there....at first they thought they messed up and the bell tower was coming down due to their not knowing what in the hay they were doing...nope A real live earthquake hit Cook Inlet...5.7 and the epicenter was just 60 miles east of here....TIME FOR LUNCH! Check out the illustration from the Alaska Earthquake Center. All those colored boxes are earthquakes, aftershocks or tremors. My Indian friends didn't bat an eyelash "Pam we only get excited when it spills our coffee".

INDIAN CREEK HEALTH DEPARTMENT

Well, it made for interesting lunch time chatter to say the least....me? I was out riding to another Fish Camp with Pinky and Catherine (village lady) and meeting the folks. We visited Gwen and Crystal at the Indian Creek Health Department (elders, mental, alcohol counseling, clinic,dental). Crystal is a one woman band to the nth degree...she is the health aide who runs the clinic. Meaning she is the go to person for any and all ailments. Crystal has been doing this job for 4 years...talk about stress. Not much turnover here...the last guy had it for 19 years. If a person needs medicine she emails the symptoms etc. to the hospital in Anchorage and they help her diagnose and they prescribe the meds. She has her own med "vending machine". All done through the computer ...they send the script back through the computer directly to the vending machine. Unreal. Practical and a good way to dispense meds without a doctor. The doctor does visit bimonthly and the dentist quarterly. Any babies Crystal? No! We send the pregnant gals to Anchorage in their 36th week so they can deliver over there.

DEATH AND BURIAL PRACTICES

I asked about death and burial rituals. Unless an autopsy is required (then body is flown to Anchorage) the dead person stays in their home for a few days. No embalming. When it is "warm" they will pack the coffin with ice to keep the body during this time period (kinda like our wake). The Tyoneks used to make their coffins now for the most part hey order them form Anchorage. The local "Trooper" declares the person dead. On the 3rd day the village people take the person to the church where the dead person stays over night along with some family members, reading the Psalms. The funeral service is held after 2:00. They do not dig the grave until the day of burial because they do not want any bad spirits to get into the grave. When the last Chief of the Village died , a plane flew over the service 3 times counter clockwise in the name of the Father, Son and Holy Spirit. After the service they have a potluck dinner at the Tribal Center. They also use "spirit houses" over the grave. this where the persons spirit rests for a period of time to accommodate the spirit before it leaves. The family also covers their mirrors for 40 days.

P.S. YES, BUBA ENDED UP AT THE INDIAN CREEK CLINIC....SEEMS THAT THE DRYWALL GOT THE BETTER PART OF HIM....WE ARE TALKING A NICE CUT ON THE HEAD AND BLOOD RUNNING DOWN THE FACE. A BIT GORY. I GUESS HE DIDN'T WANT TO TAKE MY OPINION OF THE CLINIC WITHOUT A SAMPLING...CRYSTAL TO THE RESCUE. HE LIVED!

Day 61 June 21 TYONEK-HAPPY FATHERS DAY

CHURCH WITHOUT A PRIEST-READER SERVICE

"Reader Service" means we don't have a Priest to conduct a proper Divine Liturgy. A visiting priest from Anchorage comes now and then to officiate at the church...so not enough btw without a routine and regular Priest how do you have a spiritual father and stay in the conversation of Orthodoxy? Left on my own I know I would be adrift for sure.... These village folks were all raised one religion-Russian Orthodox. So it's not like the Baptists or Catholics are down the street. Some of the village continues to practice their Orthodox religion and some do not. Pretty much same scenario in the lower 48. Most get married, buried out of the church and find the church for Christmas and Easter. We do have a sub-deacon (Andrew the Reverend Right) to guide us. He is going to start seminary in the fall so we were a good dry run. Way to go Andrew!

I asked if the village practiced any Indian cultural type beliefs or superstitions? Yes, like Chorty Night on Jan 19-if your soul is in tact "they" can't take you away. This evil spirit, when it comes in contact with you, can make you sick Pam. There is also the Sasquatch belief-Alaskan version of Big Foot-ape species. (See him there catching salmon with the bear?) Many believe in this Sasquatch. Betty (in charge of the Tyonek Tribe Corporation) is married to a Upik Eskimo man and one of their beliefs is if you drop food one of your ancestors was hungry for that very food. At Holiday dinners they take a bit of each food and put it in a cup with homage to ancestors-not forgotten.

ALASKA NATIVE CLAIMS SETTLEMENT ACT

ANCSA signed into law in 1971...the largest land claims settlement in US History. This Act was intended to resolve the long-standing issues surrounding aboriginal land claims in Alaska in addition to stimulate economic development throughout Alaska. It extinguished the Alaska native claims to the land by transferring title to 12 Alaska Native Region corporations and over 200 villages. Of course the discovery of oil up here in 1968 catapulted these issues into headlines. The pipeline takes the oil down to Valdez (remember that drunken captain) where the oil is lowered onto freighters and then to your local Exxon or BP in Boca. The Alaskan Natives received 44 million acres and $963 million which was divided among regions, urban and village corporations. This settlement compensated the natives for the invasion of their lands and opened the way for all Alaskans to profits from oil-one of the state's largest natural resources. Some handled their funds wisely-others did not.

ANCSA and related legislation produced changes in ownership of about 148,500,000 acres of land once controlled by the Feds. Listen up folks, that is larger by 6,000,000 acres than the combined areas of Maine, Vermont, New Hampshire, Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Connecticut, New York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Maryland and Virginia!!! Hello Sara Palin, why didn't you focus on this and all of the huge responsibility you had in managing this part of the US? A unique geography, natural resources and native peoples (yes that includes the rednecks too). A good reminder to Joe Biden would have been "Hey Joe, one of my National Parks is bigger than your state". What possessed MY candidate to say "Yep, Russia is next door to my house". Huh? How about hey lower 48 take a look up here and see what we have accomplished and are working on. And they said she didn't have the experience to be a VP? Shame on me and my party for not grooming her for the spotlight, no make that the inquisition by the east coast media. And still haven't been able to connect with her for a meeting...now more than ever a must. Come on Sarah you've got to dig out of this pr nightmare and rise up in the party...anyone who can handle this state and all it's proclivities surely can do something in Washington??? OK enough of that....

TYONEK LAND CORPORATION-TNC (TYONEK NATIVE CORPORATION)

Under the Act Tyonek was entitled to receive the title to the surface estate of 193,515 acres-we are talking a lot of fish, moose and berries. The regional corporation (one of 12) receives the sub-surface estate and rights. This area is rich in oil and gas, the Beuga coal field and bountiful timber. My dear new friend Betty is the go to girl for the TNC. As a matter of fact she spent yesterday touring with visitors from Israel to look at the geothermal lands....they have an interest....to build turbines to get energy the thermal water produces.

ALASKAN ATHABASCANS AND THEIR WAYS

There are 11 linguistic groups of Athabascans in Alaska. They traditionally live along the major river ways and many still do. The most important part of Athabascan subsistence living is sharing. We experienced this again and again. All hunters are part of a kin-based network in which they are expected to follow traditional customs for sharing int the community. The annual summer fish camp not only abound but are treasured and revered. We visited some today. This is a real production, not only of catching the salmon but in processing it too- canning, smoking, freezing, salting. Nothing is wasted-the head and fins are used for soup. During the summer life evolves around the fish camp and catching and processing the fish. The simple 1 or 2 room huts are jammed with relatives, pride and love. We met a young family of 6 who with 6 others make that 12 of them came across the kenai waters waters in a "journey" which is an open wooden fishing boat (not much larger than a canoe!). They anchor on the shore and climb up the hill to the fishing camp. A fire is a must as the love their fire and roasting those wieners! As Betty says-Yum! We also tasted the Artesian well water...we are talking sweet, fresh and really cold. Of course I look forward to suppers....someone in the village always sends us their salmon. Can I get a double Yum Yum! they are a kind and generous people...still quiet and private to us. And fyi-still doing my best not to offend everyone in my path!

This state is proving to be a unique state and situation...hmmmmm.

Back at the Mission Team- we had an evening discussion about the history of Orthodoxy and Icons. Hey, I learned a lot! :)

Day 60 June 20 TYONEK MISSION: BELL TOWER BLUES

Bell Tower Blues

We are unable to repair the church bell tower-which was the main construction job of the team. In fact, we have to tear it down-2 stories tall/added to the church in 1962. It is rotten, unsalvageable and not safe. My team is very disappointed in that we wanted to improve the situation not tear it down. That section of the church will have to be rebuilt from the ground floor up as it is leaking will fall down in time. So send in the demolition crew. Where do we take the scrap/demolished materials? To the dump. There is a dump for "regular" garbage, one for cars and old implements/metal and another for "other".

This Alaskan village is much like what we call a reservation in the lower 48. It is interesting to learn about their life and life style oh so very different from Boca Ville. So side by side we are living with our new friends following their lifestyle. Gwen has been our wonderful guide-including ordering the food for us, preparing much of it, taking us around the village and helping organize our nitely discussions and crafts for the kids. She purchased enough food to feed an army-not of 7! I guess she must have heard about Buba and Bocahantis. We call our team TNT (Tyonek Northstar Team). Our fearless leader is John/Motown, Bad News Blake/Florida, Andrew the Reverand Right, Rob/Seattle Slew, Monica/Pinkie Lee and Buba and Boca.

Fishing and Hoping a la Net!

Today was the day of the week for fishing. We put out nets in the dry mud stone beach. You lay it out with a little buoy so the net catches the salmon. This subsistence fishing (for the Alaskan Natives) are able to fish in the tradition of their village i.e. the net. So we waited for the tide to come in so the fish would also come in. During this time they set up a fire and had a wiener roast and s'mores. Buba was so excited!

After the 3 wolves chased me down the beach, I waited in the truck-everybody has one in various stages of use. After awhile, I ventured out of the truck over to the camp fire and decided to join in the fun and roast my very own marshmallow. Let's see it's been about 43 years since I've Kumbaya-ed...sure enough, ewwwwwwwwwwwwow! Who knew not to touch the black marshmallow with your thumb. No Aloe plant to sooth that burn-so what's the Alaskan Native way to treat this burn? Stick it in the water. Here it is June and I assure you there is no swimming on this beach. So much for Bocahantis at the camp fire...I guess all that sunscreen I brought won't help.

We did catch a big fish. Hoo Hoo! The Tyonek people are not only known as the beach people but known for their fishing on lakes and rivers. We had smoked kippers? Is that salmon too? We are slowly making our way starting to establish a rapport with the Tubughna people. While we are all Americans we come from a very different life experience and hence point of views. I am trying my best to understand this life-so removed and isolated from what I know. Buba thinks it is just fine and is trying to figure out how he can get a house here. Lots of pick up trucks and ATV's to get around the land....we even drove down on the beach in a truck, got stuck and had to floor it to get out. Now that was trippy!

VESPA VESPERS

We held Vespers on Saturday evening. I loved attending service in a church that was so old and all of their grandparents attended. Oddly- the service used to be in Russian as well as their singing. "They don't look Russian". Today it is done in English. We held our first arts and crafts class. Our team was up at the church and I was the only one back to the hall...well here come the kids piling in and ready for the class. Pinky Lee Monica was up with the guys and had all the craft stuff-OF COURSE I PANICKED! What could I do but run to the pantry and pull all the treats out...juice, cookies, candies and on and on. Whewwwwwwwwww. Saved. I was an immediate success of course. The rest of the team had a bit of a time calming down my students after I got them good and sugared up. I have been ordered to stay out of the pantry. Check out my students riding around after the sugar buzz.

Day 59 June 19 TYONEK MISSION- DE PLANE!

Landing Gear?

Off to the mission. De Plane De Plane! Yes I was hanging on to the strap for dear life despite our great and fearless pilot Carl.

He assured me while he had only been at it for 28 years he thought he could get us to Tyonek, no sweat. Easy for him to say...how will I get back???

ATHABASCAN (particular people group) DENA'INA (particular group witin) TUBUGHNA (the beach people/village people)

We were greeted byAngela (President of the Tyonek Village/Tribe) and the welcoming group. They are the "Tubughna"-the beach people. In the 1960's an oil company came to the village, gave them $12.5 million in village up grades (houses made in Seattle and shipped here, school etc.). After much exploration the oil company did not find oil and left....the impact to the village is evident. The changes thrust the village into the 21st century then left them high and dry. There has been much legislation to address our American Natives of which the Alaskan Natives are distinctly different from the lower 49 American Natives in that the Alaskan Natives were never "conquered". My ignorance of trhese Alaskan Natives is prevelahnt. On top of that trying totunderstand the hsitoy and anthropology of the natives and distincitons within the various groups and tribes is overwhelming. I was given a book that is starting to help me understand these peoples we are visitng....Shem Pete's Alaska, The Teritory of the Upper Cook Inlet Dena'ina by James Kari and James Fall.

Camp al la Tyonek

We set up our "camp" in the hospitality house. The house hasn't been used in 2 years so we really appreciate the village for getting it ready for the Mission Team. I will master the shower head...burning hot or ice cold are the choices...Buba come help me!!

Here's one of my new friends. AJ's promised to give me tips for how to handle the rustic life.

Day 58 Anchorage: MORE MISSION PREP FOR TYONEK

St. Nicholas/Tyonek Church

The Priest, Father Peter Chris came to welcome us and amongst many things told us village pace tends to be slower than the urban tempo most of us are used to...Keith suggested I take Tylenol P.M.'s to start the day off so not to offend everyone I come in contact with first thing in the morning. Our Team Trainer, Andy talked to us about humility. To approach the people we are visiting as a servant. Me not them silly. To be a learner of their culture. How do I look at things/people when I travel to other cultures? Complaining about the heat? the mosquito's? the food? Focusing on the negative or even worse being unconscious to my transgressions....alrighty then. I am sure Andy will make me stay after school for an extra lesson or two. And Pam, put that darn camera down....we are not tourists, we are a Mission Team.

Andy then asked what our expectations of going on the mission are? Adventure? A new challenge-greater sense of fruitfulness? love of travel? the desire to help others? a commitment to social justice? (Andy, do I look like a Democrat?) the need for change? seeking a new purpose for life? And then Buba piped up "exploring the possibility of long term mission service". He so did not say that, right? What! 2-3 weeks is one thing- 2-3 years is another. Can you see Pam in Albania or Guatemala for a year or two? Whoa Buba. Let's get through this one first. The good news is we will have a break from each other...at least for sleeping arrangements. Girls in one place. Boys in another. Can I get an AMEN!

Presbyteria gave me long skirt and a jumbo Babushka. No more borrowing horse blankets to wrap myself in for church service. Those French women are born knowing how to tie that Babushka on and look oh so chic. I can't tell you how many beautiful scarves I have bought over the years and over the world striving to be oh so magnifique. Has my practicing paid off? What'cha think?

So why am I going on a Mission Team to an Alaskan Village?
To share God's Blessings, Love, Fellowship and in Keith's case some good local fishin with the boys. :) I have come to love these American Indians unconditionally. I have come to learn to relate to people rather than intellectualize. I have come to learn, observe, listen and inquire so I can develop a rapport and understanding of their life and them as a person. We are only here for 2 weeks, what difference can we make?

St. Innocent Russian Orthodox Cathedral

We also went to St. Innocent Russian Orthodox Cathedral for Akathist Service, a prayer service written for specific Saints. This Cathedral was named in honor of an 18th century Bishop from Russia who helped build schools and churches for the Aleut and even produced an Aluet Bible. He was cannonized in 1977 as St. Innocent. He is honored as one of the greatest missionaries and for bringing America and Russia together in the Orthodox Faith.

In fact he consecrated the altar (1813-completed in 1883 after his death) of a rebuilt church I visited in Moscow in 1998, Christ the Savior Cathedral . Actually, Stalin tore this church down and the commies put a swimming pool in it's place. With the fall of communism and the rise of the Orthodox Church in Russia the church was "rebuilt" on this very same spot in the late 90's. My cousin Nancy, my daughter Alex and I crawled around the construction in 1998-even up to the bell tower. These new and improved "commies" really stepped it up and went above and beyond in making up for 70 years of religious oppression in the Soviet Union. Take a peek at it and see with your

eyes the beauty of this Church that St. Innocent initially consecrated. Point being I never considered I would go to his "cathedral" in Alaska and in a few weeks we will visit St. Innocents Academy on Spruce Island. http://www.xxc.ru/english/

I keep nudging my cousin Nancy that this would be a perfect place for a wedding. :)

Day 57 Anchorage: OCMC MISSION PREP

Well, I have spent hours on the phone and net adjusting our Alaska schedule....I was way too shortsighted in what there is to see here and how long it would take to see it. While I am having no luck seeing my pal Sarah we did manage to add on a couple of weeks up here so we can see the far reaches of the state. Don't forget "Russia is next door to my home". Gotta see that Arctic Park and Pipeline. today we dropped by the Ritz Camera to develop the first 56 days....1,863 pics developed....so if I keep it up at this rate,we are 1/3 of the way along the journey, I'll be putting photo albums together for the next 6 months. I can't resist. Most everything my eyes see are picture worthy-at least that's what my heart tells me. I must learn how to edit...after all how many mountain pictures does one "need"?

Well just a few more, we visited the Turnagain Arm (a 50 mile long fjord)-saw the Chugach National Forest and the Portage Glacier. Never mind it's summer and they still have hunks of ice floating on shore. We even saw one young nut out on a wind surfer....is there a wet suit warm enough for this water and wind????? We so wanted to see the Beluga Whales- no luck. We will have another chance when we drive down to Seward/Kenai Pennisula.

TYONEK- OUR MISSION VILLAGE
Interesting things about Tyonek: Tyonek lies on a bluff on the northwest shore of Cook Inlet, 43 miles southwest of Anchorage. It is the only community in the Kenai Peninsula Borough that is not located directly on the Peninsula. Although, the community is located in the Anchorage Recording District, you can't get there from here....at least by car. Single engine prop here we go. The area encompasses 22 sq. miles of land and 3 sq. miles of water. It is a Dena'ina (Tanaina) Athabascan Indian village. Various settlements in this area include Old Tyonek Creek, Robert Creek, Timber Camp, Beluga and Moquawkie Indian Reservation.

Population in July of 2007: 206 total - 114 males, 92 females. That translates to less than 3 people per square mile. Over 95% of the population is American Indian/Native Alaskan. Tyonek became a major port during the Resurrection Creek gold rush of the 1880s, but declined after the founding of Anchorage on the other side of Cook Inlet in 1915. Tyonek was moved to its current site when the original village, located on lower ground, flooded in the 1930s.

The Alaska Commercial Company had a major outpost in Tyonek by 1875. In 1880, "Tyonok" station and village, believed to be two separate communities, had a total of 117 residents, including 109 Athabascans, 6 "creoles" and 2 whites. After gold was discovered at Resurrection Creek in the 1880s, Tyonek became a major disembarkment point for goods and people. In 1915, the Tyonek Reservation (also known as Moquawkie Indian Reservation) was established. The devastating influenza epidemic of 1918-19 left few survivors among the Athabascans. The village was moved to its present location atop a bluff when the old site near Tyonek Timber flooded in the early 1930s. The population declined when Anchorage was founded. In 1965, the federal court ruled that the Bureau of Indian Affairs (BIA) had no right to lease Tyonek Indian land for oil development without permission of the Indians themselves. The tribe sold rights to drill for oil and gas beneath the reservation to a group of oil companies for $12.9 million. The reservation status was revoked with the passage of the Alaska Native Claims Settlement Act in 1971. Beluga, a site near Tyonek, is owned by Chugach Electric Association and provides some electricity for Anchorage.


At our prep class, Issac, a member of the tribe, explained what our mission building project will be, what our living conditions will be like (he promised to fix the hot water heater for me) and a history of the church community. His Grandfather was the Chief of the village and had the Orthodox Church built in 1932. We look forward to our flight over on that single engine prop.... Joy. And can you believe Issac is buying a condo in Fort Pierce, Florida!


And by the way Father Leo said the state resident's "dividend" this year was $2000 per person and they also rec'd another tax return of $1200! Maybe Sarah should show Arnold how to run the budget....


RECONCILIATION
The second part of that Forgiveness thing is RECONCILIATION.
So when I forgive I need to be open to reconciliation. This is forgiveness in action-not just floating around in my head. Actually isn't reconciliation the goal of forgiveness? What stops me from reconciling with a person? A fear? An expectation of the other person? Isn't forgiveness only fulfilled in "reconciliation"? Why is it hardest to forgive those closest to me? Why do I get involved in criticism and judging others? Isn't that hypocritical? Pray for me family and friends that I may also master RECONCILIATION!